Well I've finally started the swap, just finished day 2.

It's a JDM H22a with M2B4 LSD transmisison going into a 91 4WS.


Parts waiting to go on the motor and car:






Here's is the motor, got it from hmotorsonline.com:



Breaking it down:






Skunk 2 tuner valve springs and titanium retainers installed:



None of that janky looking missing timing cover and cut off end of valve cover for this engine. Did nice and clean cuts that are functional and look great. I'll get better pics of this once the engine is together:



Euro-R mani from Rosko, all set up:



Welded a 1/8" NPT bung into the pan for an oil temp sender:



Manifold and head waiting for me to finish cleaning the block:

Here is from day 3:


Pan installed and new rear main seal:



H23 manual tensioner conversion:



ARP head studs:



Pro 1 cams installed:



13lbs cromoly fly and f1 clutch:



Finished for the night:



Tomorrows to do list:

Degree cams
Valve adjustment
Add timing marks to fly/crank pulley
Strip clean and paint tranny
Mate tranny to block and reinstall all the extra bits

Day 4 pics:

Cam degreeing:


My solution to blocking the oil bypass for the degreeing, a shaved head bolt slid through the passage with a nut on the other end:



Tranny done:




As it sits:





Tomorrows goals are to finish putting everything on the engine, tie up any loose ends, and then I might start tearing into the car.

Ok from today:

Huge pile of trash just from setting up the motor:




The next few pics is of the motor ready to go into the car, I also have the rywire harness installed too if you look close:






Lude just before pulling it in, fabulous weather:



Last picture of the complete B20a setup:




Started pulling it apart:






That's it for today, tomorrow I should have the B20 out and H22 in.

Day 6-7:


Cleaned front Ksports:



Pulling B20:




B20 vs H22:



No fit:




Cut so I can get a bolt in there:



H22 ready to go in:



Since my B20 alt. has less than 100 miles on it I wanted to reuse it, it's a direct fit once you drill out the lower hole so the H22 bolt can slide through:



H22 in:



Ground clearance, jeeze:



As it sits:





Yeah so I hate the AZ mounts, every mount needed to be slotted in some way. Plus the P/S belt is still touching the chassis, valve cover touching the hood, WTF. I can already see a future project where I clearance the rear cross member near the tranny case, then remake new steel portions of the mounts to bring the motor further back, and 1/8" to the passenger side.

More gripes is with the explicit speed traction bar, I'm pretty sure the radius rods supplied with it are too long. I measured 19 1/4" from the front crossmember mount bolt to the center of the lower balljoint on either side with the stock radius rods. But with the ES radius rods adjusted to minimal length I'm only able to get 19 1/2", fucked. The radius rods need to be 1/2" shorter is my guess, more money I will have to spend in the future buying new radius rods.

Ok so using a giant pry bar between the mount and chassis I was able to shift the motor towards the passenger side a hair and got a small gap between the P/S belt and chassis. The upper mount bolt is at it's limit though, I'm going to back it up with a larger washer for now:



Turns out I sent Sean a 5th gen P/S pump line and it doesn't fit on the earlier pump, so I had to weld a new fitting on the bit of line that came with the swap:





I'm using a hytech replica header and it hangs quite a bit lower than the pan, for no apparent reason. So I cut it down so it hugs the bottom of the pan:







After fixing the P/S issues I mostly worked on the exhaust today. Welded a flex to and flange to the downpipe, plus added extra O2 bungs:




Started on the exhaust system, it will have a 3" high flow cat, 2 glasspacks, and a turbo style muffler. I'm hoping these keep it reasonably quiet, because I hate a loud exhaust:

More.



Because my mounts are off my tranny fill bolt is very close to the rear crossmember. In fact to get it out required a huge prybar to shift the motor forward enough to get it out. So I shaved the head down a bit to help things, it still needs a prybar but it's not as bad:



Here is what the ECU end of the rywire harness looks like, the injector resistor box needs to be mounted close to the ECU and the connector on the right has various wires that need to be spliced into the stock ECU plugs:



Front-end, radiator + misc stuff installed:



Mocking up intake:




Cooling after welding:



Finished, in the future I think I will wrap it with black exhaust wrap when I do the header:



Modified accord shifter base to match 3g lude bolt pattern:




That's it for pics. I did a lot of other work the last two days taking care of loose ends, that sort of thing, but nothing worth a picture.

Ah well here I am again on leave with some time to work on the car.

I installed the new shorter axle (aprox 1/2" shorter) and all is well!

Moving on I'm currently finishing up the header-exhaust system, here are some pics from today:






Tomorrow I'm going to paint the header, then wrap it plus the whole exhaust and intake pipe. I'm also going to use some liquid exhaust sealer on the header slip joints to hopefully fix the leaks I mentioned before.

At that point I should be done with the exhaust and ready to tackle other small issues.

Here is from today. Finished all the wrap and reinstalled everything, sounds good so far. The smoke is from the exhaust sealer burning off:











Tomorrow I'm making new seat mounts, adjusting my harness mounts and hopefully putting in some anti push through plates under the roll bar.

A while back I installed my seats with Corbeau brackets and... they sit way too fucking high. It's not corbeau's fault, the only way to lower them more and retain the slider function is to cut part of the chassis on each side of the floor pan. Well that is what I worked on today:

Almost cut out:



I did leave about 1/2" of it to retain some rigidity:



Testing helmet clearance in my seating position, previously there was none - helmet hitting ceiling:



Drivers seat at new position, and passenger seat in old to show height difference:



I also took this opportunity to install my new snap hook hardware for the belt mounts:



Almost done, just need to install the passenger belt:



Random shot of the console:

Finished installing the belts this morning. After that I decided to tackle the suspension. Put my "nice" wheels on, raised the front ride height 1/2" and did a quick alignment:




I've taken it on 2 very short test drives and already hit the downpipe again tearing a bit of the wrap. I think I will be switching to stiffer springs in the future and I absolutely need to build a skid plate for this thing.

Today I fixed a few small drips and changed the oil, then I washed the car. While I was under her I made a small skid plate for the part of the header that keeps hitting as a quick fix:





Tomorrow is the big day, the car is ready for some real road testing. In the morning I'm getting new tabs for it and setting off. Hopefully I won't be making any calls to AAA tomorrow...

Met up with Dave in Mt Vernon and took a couple of shots of his beautiful swap.


















I love Dave's lude always so clean and he pays attention to detail which is just outstanding!!!!!


Oh and one more thing, Thanks again Dave for helping fix that powersteering leak, I promise I really did not plan on working on the lude today.

Although I completed my H22 swap back in 2012, I've never really been happy with how the engine fits in the bay. In fact I just don't enjoy driving the car the way it is, it's been months since I even started it.

However the H22 simply fits as good as it can, without cutting stuff... so lets do some cutting.

Too much overhang, I must fix this:



19 APR 15: Pulling Engine, Clearances, First Marks
I pulled the engine today, but before I did I took some photos and measurements.

RH axle cup to subframe:



You may have read about my escapades with the tranny fill bolt in my last build thread, here you can see the current clearance. I will rectify this:



Tranny case end vs. chassis. I should be mostly ok on clearance, maybe a little grinding and cutting:



LH halfshaft:



Oil filter clearance, I will need to cut a bit out of the subframe to keep filter changes easy:



This one shows the clearance on the rear mount bracket, cutting required here as well:



Diff housing from above, I've already marked where I intend to do my initial cuts:




Under intake manifold, tons of room:



Valve cover will be fine too:



Ready to be picked:



Here I've marked where I will initially cut, there is going to be a large amount of work in the RH lower control arm area. I need to cut out a big section, but construct the new part so as to keep strength so the subframe doesn't flex. :




I won't know exactly how far back I can push the engine until I make my first cuts and see how much dead space there is inside the subframe. I can only go so far before I run into the steering rack.

Other good stuff is once I get the engine further back in the bay I will also be able to raise it up a little bit. I plan on trimming part of my hood support structure for more height still.

I also should be able to ditch the traction bar and switch back to the stock radius rod setup, which I like better.

First cuts:





More or less finished with cutting here:




Engine test fit:






That's it for now, I might get some more done later today.

˩udePoweЯ;3895089 wrote:Nice car! And may I ask why you don't enjoy driving it the way it was? Is it because you were scraping your undercarriage because of how low the engine sits? Can't wait to see the finished product!

Yeah, every time I'd drive it I would hit the downpipe on something.




Got a little more done today, started rebuilding the subframe:





The oil filter side was easy, I just cut off the lip and welded the seam:

Getting there:



Mostly done here. Once I have the mounts finalized I will add some more support near the lower arm:



Engine test fit #2:



RH chassis will need some trimming for the tranny:

Rear mount tacked up:




Here you can see how much higher the bore is than the AZ race mount. Maybe a little optimistic but I can always shorten it:



Here is the top view showing how much further back the bore is:



Test fit in car:



Chassis adjusted for tranny clearance:




Finished more welding on the subframe:



I'm going to try and finish the welding tomorrow and do another engine test fit. My plan is to mount the engine using only the rear mount then place a jack under the engine. Then I can close the hood and swing the engine up to it using the rear mount as a hinge. After that it's just a matter of marking the hood support for cutting.

Finished subframe:




The rear mount did turn out to be overly optimistic so I shortened it 1/2". Then I did another engine test fit and checked where I needed to cut the hood support. To see how much I gained I raised the engine a bit, set the hood on it and then measured:



Chop chop:






Hot damn, gained a full inch on just the hood support:



Inside:




As it sits:




After looking at all the clearances I'm starting to wonder if my initial instinct of raising the rear mount was wrong. Maybe I need to make the rear mount shorter than the AZ mount and have the front of the engine higher. Giving it a little rear lean should rotate the diff housing and axle cup further away from the subframe. Then I will have room to push it back a bit more, which will free more space above the engine allowing me to raise it again...

Anyways, I'll test this theory tomorrow. Because right now I'm about to eat me some Thai food.

Got the subframe and chassis modifications primered:




My idea of shortening the rear mount and raising the front of the motor did work. Here is the finalized rear mount:



After some work with the tape measure I've got the motor in it's final position, here are some pics of clearances:








Hood clearance is good. The closest part is the section of the valve cover between the plastic harness cover and the spark plug canyon. That has around 1/8" clearance right now. Everywhere else is 1/4" or more.



Here is the current underhang vs the stock front subframe:


Stock B20:


Osvaldo's H22 swap with subframe spacing:



This week is mount fabrication.

Finished half of the front mount today:

Wing8806;3898345 wrote:Any issues with shifter lever clearance? Looks damn close

I'm just going to have to move the clutch damper. It's good otherwise.






Finished front mount setup.






The rest of the steel I need to finish the mounts is supposed to arrive tomorrow. If all turns out well I hope to have the mounts finished before next week.

frijoles;3899497 wrote:Why not just remove the dampener completely?

Don't really see a reason to.




Drivers mount. Clearance was too tight to install one of the bolts from above so I came up with this clamp style mount so I could use that bolt from below:



I'm reusing the B20a5 mount bracket, but I added 1/2" spacers to raise it a bit:



Installed:




Tranny mount:



Almost done, just need to add the uprights to match up with the mount:

Thanks.


Tranny mount bracket done:



Installed:



All mounted:



Tested the radius rod clearance. At this suspension compression it touches the pulley:



I modified the radius rod and welded an extra bit on for strength:




After the mod:



P/S belt clearance, a little bit more than the AZ mounts:



Clearance at front of pump:



The stock crossmember fits and just barely touches the pan:



Ground clearance:





I wound up with a little bit more hood clearance than I calculated so I think I'm going to shim the front mounts a bit to get maximum ground clearance. That might make the crossmember stop touching the pan and add a little more pulley clearance as well.

frijoles;3901490 wrote:Ground clearance was the whole reason I decided against the H swap and I changed to a B swap.

I really thought I would learn to live with it. Never did.

RobbieRob;3903001 wrote:Nice fabrication man. Looking good

Thanks.



Making some poly bushings work for the radius rods. I'm using a 13mm socket shoved into the center hole as a centering device for the 7/8" holesaw:







Checked header clearance on the front subframe, all good:



I had a big downpipe dent from a previous "incident". I welded a spare bolt onto it and used a prybar to work it out:



Here is where I bent the clutch dampener for now:







Paint day.

Rear subframe:



Hood:



There were two problems with the engine finish. I originally painted it during the winter and I think some moisture was trapped under the paint. That caused bits of bad oxidation to poke through everywhere. Also the VHT paint I used (which I've used on blocks before) turned yellow this time for some reason. I sanded all the old stuff off and painted it with 500° cast aluminium paint from Duplicolor this time:

Did a little bit today, got side tracked by other stuff.

Reinstalled hood:



Installed upgraded end links and poly bushings for front swaybar:



Took the mounts apart and prepped them to get powder coated:

I'm still waiting to get the mounts back from powder coating, they should be done Wed or Thurs. I also sent the injectors out for a cleaning and flow test. Those should be back any day now as well.


I painted the modified radius rod and front subframe. I also added some spacers to the crossmember:



The P28 I'm using is taller than the stock ECU and I was using some spacers under the mounting plate to give it more room. But I decided to try for a more stock fit by cutting out a section of the mounting plate and having the bottom of the ECU flush with it:

Got the injectors back, one was stuck closed:



Picked up the mounts too. They look professional now:



Motor is going back in this weekend.

Thanks.


Started to put it all back together today.

Mounts installed:





About half way done:



The crossmember still needs some more spacers to bring it down to the bottom of the downpipe:

frijoles;3910642 wrote:How far does it hang now, vs the AZ or ESP mounts?

Eh it's hard to say for sure. Right now it's approximately 1" - 1.5" lower than the B20. Off the shelf H mounts probably have it 2.5" - 3" lower than the B20.

B20:


From today:





I made a little mistake. I didn't check the left axle clearance with the axle, I just eyeballed it. When I put it in the boot was touching the subframe lightly. Luckily there was enough room to work and modify the subframe without pulling the motor again.

I forgot the before picture but here are the afters:





When I was about to put the right axle in I peeked into the diff and saw a shape that didn't make sense. Fished this out with some pliers:


Rare JDM sunflower seed for sale, $200.


I'm almost done in the bay, just a little clean up left:



Here is a side view of the overhang and ground clearance, AZ vs now:





Tomorrow I'm going to put together a lightweight front bumper cover support so I can hang the front end and then start working on the ECU/wiring stuff.

Still ongoing.

I made the bumper cover support:



Got the ECU plate sorted out:



Installed for testing, what a mess:



I took the car for a test drive. Everything works and the mounts didn't explode either! Runs way smoother than before since I'm using 62A urethane and don't have the motor pry bared into place for belt clearance. Power is way better too it seems, the basemap I chose in Neptune this time is for a H22 with bolt on's so it's fairly close.

I've got some of the final poly bushings for the suspension I need coming then I will be able to align it. I also cleaned the car really well and took some insane stuff off the paint with a claybar, but I still need to hit it with the polisher.

Finally the valve cover is also off right now getting powder coated because it was suffering the same paint issues the block was.

logan_the_kid;3914058 wrote:this is amazing! good job man! id be interested in getting the specs for your mounts so i can fab myself up a set !!

I've got them modeled but I'm going to put some miles on this setup before I release anything.



I'm still waiting for my rear radius rod bushings to ship so I'm kinda stalled for now. But I did get these in:



I also got the valve cover back and installed my Rosko wire cover along with it:

The bushings I ordered from ebay arrived and I got them installed. They are indeed a perfect no modification fit:





This car now has 4 different brands of bushings in it.

So finally I can do the alignment tomorrow. It's probably going to be a long day because I'm going to take this opportunity to make a DIY alignment tutorial while I'm at it.

I did the alignment Saturday and burned through half a tank on my favorite back roads Sunday. Car seems solid and works great. I hit all kinds of dips and bumps that I would have bottomed out on before and there were no issues, it's far more enjoyable now.

I made a new shifter base that seals the hole under the shifter completely when used with foam.

I'm temporarily stalled on another project so I made a 3 point STB for this car:

Got the new swaybar on this car. I wasn't sure it would clear the 3" exhaust but it turned out fine:




luda8890 did a street tune on it a few weeks back so the AFR's are much better right now. I have still got some things I need to do to it, but hopefully I will be able to get it on a dyno for a full tune 'soon'.

Since changing the engine position my intake hasn't fit quite right (too short). I just had it kinda wedged in there and the couplers gave it enough play to make it work. I have been wanting to start learning aluminum and this seemed like a good place to start.

First bend, this one has a larger radius than the old one:



Making the filter mount/coupler:





Tacked together:




Done:




I like it, much lighter than the steel one. I still need to buy some heat wrap for it though.


Next thing I'm going to try in aluminum is recreating this bumper cover support I made for someone a while back:

Progress on the aluminum bumper cover support:

I wrapped the new intake today.

I found a way to suspend the intake using some ratchet straps, made it much easier to wrap:






Also, I got some aluminium nuts for the fog light mounts. So I should be able to finish the new bumper cover support soon.

I've now got enough miles on these H22 mounts that I am confident they are good to go.

Here is a ZIP file that contains the 3D models for each plus some other stuff:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qix1kmfj6p70i ... m.zip?dl=0

The 3D models are made for Solidworks and I know people may not be able to get access to it. So what you can do is go to Onshape.com and sign up for a free account. They have an in-browser 3D editor that can view them. I also uploaded them there, just search for "ICH22M" in public documents and they will all come up.