I'm doing the porting and polishing except for the secondaries and main opening. That stuff is being done by Toofast. I already bought a 60mm TB from him before this and will be using it with this setup of course.

For the manifold I ported it just like the intake side of the head, roughing out the stock grain with the long carbide burrs and finishing with sanding wheels. Except the upper manifold down through the secondaries I did additional polishing with the crossbuffs.

Here is the stuff I got back from Toofast, 60mm opening:

I had already polished it some when I sent it out to him:

All the these are opened 2mm more I believe:

I'm marking where I need to match the new secondary plate with the lower manifold. BTW he did top quality work on this it's great:

You can see where they need to be enlarged:

After doing the first one:

Only run runner left to port and match, I'm polishing them down till the bend toward the head, then it switches up to 80 grit all the way to the head:

Now I'm matching the gaskets, first I was holding it in place with tape:

I noticed the secondary plate isn't completely flat and has recesses between the openings, They're big enough that you can drill a hole and screw the gasket in place on the upper and lower manifold. This way there is no chance of your matched gasket shifting a little bit and protruding into the port a bit:

Here you can see the recess were the screw head will sit in:

Done, this gasket is going nowhere!

Secondaries argent obstructed by the screws:

After some inspection I noticed the secondaries needed to be matched to the upper manifold a bit better, you can see where I've marked that areas that need to be beveled. I've already done the outer passages in this pic:

Now done with flapper openings, and I polished it too:

Matched new TB gasket to upper mani:

Well one of the things I'm doing to wring more HP out of this setup is bypassing anything that I can that causes heat to be absorbed by the intake mani. I've already bypassed the coolant that goes through the TB and that made a big difference in how hot it gets, now I'm going to be bypassing the EACV and FIV.

I drilled the air passage holes out a little bit and tapped them for 3/8" pipe thread. This digi cam sucks and you cant really make out the threads in the pics but they are there:

Now I'm putting in brass plugs to seal the passages:

More about bypassing the EACV and FIV:

The car doesn't drive right if you disconnect the EACV elec. plug, so I took my spare EACV and mounted it on the firewall. Then routed the wiring to it and keep that plugged in instead of the one on the mani. Now the only things that can affect my idle is the FIV and the regular idle adjust screw. The old EACV is still on the mani in the car right now till after I install this new setup. For some reason the FIV doesn't seem to do anything anymore, even though it is still fully connected the EACV must be tied in with it somehow. No matter, I'm really liking this setup with the EACV bypassed. Once the car is warmed up the idle is always dead even and never changes from where I have it set. However there is a downside, when the car is cold and started for the first minute or so it doesn't like to idle and the RPM goes down under 500 for a sec or two then comes up where I had it set then back down etc. It's not like a bouncy idle, it's random and goes away pretty quick I can definitely live with it.

Well I assembled the manifold and also painted it with the aluminium paint, looking pretty fancy eh?

Blocked off the EGR, since this is my old b02a5 mani..The lower half of this mani with the EGR crap is waaay ugly compared to my JDM lower manifold on the car right now:

Here is the new sticker, looks like a brand new manifold: