Solid Engine Mounts
By Tom Coleman

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New write-up for softer mount filling: Solid Motor Mounts #2

 

Even in stock trim, the movement of the motor will wear out and crack the rubber stock front and rear motor mounts. When you add more power, it just gets worse and the motor torques back violently when you shift. These mounts are solid urethane. That are modified stock mounts. You do get more vibration with these mounts. But you also transfer ALL of the power to the wheels when you shift and let out the clutch.

I do not modify the mounts any longer. This is something that you can do yourself. All you do is cut a piece of paper out so that it fits around the center shaft and lays along the edge of the mount. Glue it to the mount with Elmer's glue. The glued edge MUST be water tight or the urethane will just leak out.
You can buy the urethane from www.McMaster.com the part number is: 8644K11

You just make the sure the glue is COMPLETELY dry, then pour water in to see if it leaks. If it does, apply more glue to the leaking area. If it is a tight seal, pout the water out, support the mount so that it is level. Then mix up the urethane and pour it in to the cavities in the mounts. Let it dry overnight. Then use a wire wheel to remove the paper and glue. Reinstall them on your car and you are done.

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I've been able to smooth out my idle quite a bit by adjusting the idle up to 1000-1200 RPM and installing an MSD Blaster-2 ignition coil. Incase your looking for ways to improve it.

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Pics of me doing my mounts:

 

Cleaned them:

 

Here's the "stuff":

 

Glued around center shaft:

 

All of the glue drying, he's not kidding it must be completely dry!:

 

Close-up:

 

Pouring:

 

Drying:

 

Done, let them cure for a day or two before re-installing them in the car: